Ceiling Repair Geelong Geelong : Geelong Elite Plaster

Geelong Elite Plaster repairs, re-sheets and replaces plaster and plasterboard ceilings across Geelong, backed by [X] years on the tools in this region. [CONFIRM years] We take on the full range of ceiling problems rather than one slice of it — sagging and dropping ceilings, water stains and storm damage, cracks along joints and cornice lines, holes left by old light fittings and exhaust fans, nail pops, mouldy bathroom ceilings, and full re-sheets where a repair no longer stacks up. Lath and plaster in a period home, 1970s plasterboard, or a modern truss-framed ceiling — we find the cause first, tell you honestly whether it should be patched, re-secured or replaced, then finish it so your painter can start.

We cover the whole G21 region — Greater Geelong, the Bellarine Peninsula, the Surf Coast, Golden Plains and Queenscliffe — from our base at 9 Ryan Place, South Geelong. That matters more on ceilings than on any other plastering job. Greater Geelong is 86.4% detached houses against 73.4% for Victoria (ABS 2021 Census), so nearly every ceiling here sits under its own roof and its own gutters. Mean 9am humidity at Geelong Airport hits 88% in June (Bureau of Meteorology, station 087163), and the region has recorded gusts to 118 km/h. Every repair is set out to AS/NZS 2589:2017, the Australian Standard for applying and finishing gypsum linings, and every quote names the method — patch, re-secure, overlay or replace — and the reason for it.

Why Geelong Homeowners Call Us for Ceilings

  • We tell you how urgent it is before we quote. No ceiling repair page in the Geelong results gives you a way to judge severity — they all just say “act right away.” Block 7 has the actual warning signs and a measurement you can take yourself in two minutes.
  • You get a repair-or-replace answer with reasons attached. Patching a ceiling that needs re-sheeting wastes your money twice. Re-sheeting one that only needed re-screwing wastes it once. We work through four options and tell you which one we can stand behind with a guarantee.
  • Pre-1990 ceilings get an asbestos check before anything is disturbed. Sprayed vermiculite “popcorn” ceilings were installed in Australia between 1924 and 1990, they are classified friable, and disturbing one without a Class A licence is illegal. Almost no ceiling page in this market mentions asbestos at all.
  • Your level of finish is written on the quote. AS/NZS 2589:2017 defines Level 3, 4 and 5. Level 4 is the accepted domestic standard; Level 5 adds a full skim. Ceilings catch raking light in a way walls don’t, so it matters more here — and no local competitor names the standard.
  • A local address and a local landline. 9 Ryan Place, South Geelong. Several businesses ranking for ceiling repair in Geelong run Melbourne numbers, generic map pins, or copy that still names another region.
  • Fully insured, and we’ll show you. Public liability and WorkCover certificates supplied on request before we start

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Our Ceiling Repair Services in Geelong

Sagging Ceiling Repair

A sagging plasterboard ceiling is a fixing problem, not a decorating problem. Sheets are held by stud adhesive working together with screws or nails. Once some let go, the load transfers to whatever is still holding — which then carries more than it was designed to. A 6000mm sheet weighs over 50 kg, and adhesive on its own is not a fixing system.

Western Australia’s building regulator investigated a cluster of unexplained ceiling collapses, mostly in homes completed between 2005 and 2009, and found poor adhesive application was the common factor at every home inspected. Residents had all noticed warning signs first; the signs simply seemed minor at the time. That guidance is Western Australian, not Victorian, but the physics are identical.

What we do: work out whether the sheets will pull back flat. Caught early over a small area, re-screwing to the ceiling timbers at 300mm centres often brings it back. Where it won’t pull flat, temporary battens go across the underside for about a week. Where sheets have been curving for years and are distorted, re-securing won’t hold — and we’ll say so.


Water Damaged Ceiling Repair

Brown or yellow patches, bubbling paint, a soft spot, a musty smell, or water actually dripping. The stain is the last thing to appear and the first thing people try to paint over.

The order of trades is what saves you money. Water through the roof needs a roof plumber. A burst or leaking pipe needs a plumber. An exhaust fan or air-conditioning duct discharging into the roof space needs that ducting fixed. We come third, and closing a ceiling up before the source is fixed and the cavity is dry guarantees you pay twice.

Why we don’t just patch it. CSR Gyprock’s own position is that plasterboard should be replaced after being substantially wet, and that after minor exposure it must dry completely and be inspected before anyone decides to keep it. The reason is mechanical: wet paper facing reduces both board strength and the holding capacity of the fixings. Wet insulation comes out too — it holds water against the board.

Stains and mould. US EPA guidance is that materials dried within 24 to 48 hours will, in most cases, not grow mould — a guideline, not a guarantee. And a stain painted over with ordinary ceiling paint bleeds back through. An oil-based stain-blocking sealer goes on first; Dulux’s ceiling stain blocker is specified for water stains, mould stains, tannin bleed and rust on paper-faced plasterboard.


Cracked Ceiling Repair

Most ceiling cracks are cosmetic. Some aren’t, and the difference is width, pattern, and whether it keeps coming back.

CSIRO’s guidance on foundation movement reproduces the AS 2870 damage classification: hairline cracks under 0.1mm are negligible, under 1mm need no repair, under 5mm are noticeable but easily filled. From 5mm to 15mm — or several cracks over 3mm in one group — the cause needs investigating, not just the symptom.

The crack that keeps returning is a different problem. CSIRO explains that where summers are dry and winters cold and wet, which is Geelong exactly, clay soil moisture migrates outward and the house tends to “dish” — and one of the first symptoms is cracking of cornice mitres. Each season reopens it, usually a little wider. Rigid filler buys you one summer. We look for the pattern first: same corner every year, doors starting to bind, floors feeling slightly dished. If that’s what’s happening, you have a footing and drainage question, and we’ll tell you to sort that before paying us to fill anything.


Ceiling Holes and Patch Repairs

Old downlight and pendant positions, exhaust fan changes, a foot through from the roof space, furniture on the way up a staircase, pipe failures.

A proper patch isn’t a smear of compound. We cut back to a straight edge, fix backing behind the hole so the patch has bearing, tape the joins, then run three coats with drying time between each and feather them well past the repair. Done that way, a patch disappears under paint. Done as a single fill, you’ll see the outline forever once light rakes across it.

One honest caveat: the plaster repair vanishes, but new paint rarely matches aged paint exactly. Ceilings are usually best painted wall-to-wall after a repair, and we’ll tell you when that applies.


Cornice Repair and Replacement

Cornice separating from the wall or ceiling, cracked mitres, sections dropping, or damaged ornamental cornice in a period home. Two very different causes, two different fixes.

If the cornice is dropping with the ceiling sheet, that’s a ceiling fixing problem and the cornice is a symptom — WA’s regulator lists sagging sheeting and dropping cornice together as one warning sign. If the cornice alone has let go, it’s adhesion. CSR Gyprock’s cornice guide requires a 10mm bead of cornice cement along both back edges, cornice cement applied to the mitres and butt joints, and — the step that gets skipped — the adhesion zone sanded or PVA-coated where the surface was previously painted. Cornice stuck onto old paint lets go.

We refit with cornice cement rather than gap filler. Rigid filler in a joint that moves seasonally cracks again in the same place.


Ceiling Replacement and Re-Sheeting

When repair no longer stacks up, the old board and cornice come down and new sheets go up. It’s messier and costs more, but it’s the option that can be properly warranted — often the real reason a contractor recommends it.

What we change while the ceiling is open. Wherever possible we fix new sheets to metal furring channel or ceiling battens rather than straight to the trusses, because timber trusses move seasonally and directly fixed ceilings crack at the joints when they do. We use ceiling-grade board: Gyprock recommends Supaceil for all internal ceilings specifically because its formulation resists sag and it can run at up to 600mm centres. Back-blocking goes in at butt joints and where a ceiling runs three or more recessed joints across. Control joints at 12m maximum.

Two things worth knowing. Ceilings are designed to carry framing, sheeting, insulation and light-weight fittings — nothing else. Storing anything in the roof space needs its own supporting framework. And plasterboard ceilings are non-trafficable: dead load limits are 2kg/m² at 600mm centres and 2.5kg/m² at 450mm.

Ceiling Overlay and Resurfacing

Two middle options most people don’t know exist.

Overlay leaves the original sheeting in place. Permanent timber or metal battens are fixed through it into the framing, and new plasterboard goes on underneath. No demolition, no tip fees, and existing insulation stays. The trade-off is roughly 40mm of ceiling height, so it doesn’t suit low ceilings or tight door heads, and the existing framing has to be sound because it’s carrying the extra weight. Overlay is also the standard way to deal with a vermiculite ceiling that tests positive without removing it.

Resurfacing suits ceilings that are structurally fine but look tired — old texture, patchy repairs from three different eras, minor surface damage. We skim the whole surface rather than chasing individual defects, so you get one uniform plane instead of a map of past repairs.


Lath and Plaster and Period Ceilings

Geelong’s Victorian and Edwardian stock — Newtown, Geelong West, East Geelong, South Geelong, Queenscliff — is built on timber lath with lime plaster, not plasterboard. It behaves differently and fails differently.

Patching lime plaster with modern gypsum compound is a common and expensive mistake. We work out whether a section can be conserved and repaired, or whether the sensible answer is overlay or re-sheet, and we match ceiling roses and ornate cornice profiles where they’re worth keeping. Heritage overlay controls may apply, which changes the conversation — we flag that rather than discover it.


Vermiculite and Popcorn Ceilings

Covered fully in Block 7. Short version: if your ceiling is a sprayed textured “popcorn” finish and the house predates 1990, don’t sand it, don’t scrape it, and don’t let anyone else. Have it sampled first.


Commercial Ceiling Repair

Offices, retail and shopfronts, cafés and hospitality, medical and dental suites, childcare, schools, aged care and warehouses across the G21 region. Set plasterboard ceilings, bulkheads, suspended grid and tile replacement, storm and water make-good, and reinstatement at lease end.

The difference on commercial work is scheduling and compliance rather than technique. We work after hours and weekends where trading can’t stop, attend inductions, provide SWMS and stage around other trades. Where a ceiling carries a fire or acoustic rating, the system is certified as a complete assembly — change the board, the screw spacing or the framing and the tested rating no longer applies, so make-good has to be reinstated to the original system with the documentation to prove it.

How a Ceiling Repair Runs

  1. Find the cause before quoting the fix. We inspect from below, check the roof space where it’s safe, and look at the fixing pattern, moisture, mould and any sign the framing is moving. Anyone entering a ceiling space — including us — kills the mains power first. If the cause is a leak or ducting discharging into the cavity, we tell you which trade to call and don’t start until it’s fixed.
  2. The quote names the method. Patch, section replacement, re-screw, overlay or full re-sheet, plus the level of finish, whether cornice is being replaced, and whether painting is included. Free, usually within [X] business days. [CONFIRM turnaround]
  3. Drying and preparation. Wet board and wet insulation come out. Framing and cavity have to be dry before anything is closed up. We protect floors and furniture, seal the room where the work is dusty, and set up access.
  4. The repair. Cut back to sound board and a straight edge, fix backing or back-blocking so joints have bearing, sheet or re-secure as specified, then tape.
  5. Three-coat setting. Bedding coat, second coat, topping coat, roughly 24 hours between each. This is the stage that can’t be rushed, and rushing it is why joints reappear months later. A Geelong winter takes longer — see Block 6.
  6. Sand, seal, clean up. Dust-extracted sanding and HEPA vacuums, not pole-sanding into an open room. Water stains get an oil-based sealer before any topcoat. Old board and rubbish removed, surface checked under a work light, walk-through against the finish you paid for.

Why Geelong Ceilings Fail — and Why Repairs Come Back

Winter drying is far slower than the tin says. Mean 9am humidity at Geelong Airport reaches 88% in June and 87% in July (BOM station 087163). Jointing compound drying times assume conditions much drier than that. A repair given the same three days in July as in February is why the joint shows again by spring. We build the season into the schedule and say so at quote stage.

Cold snaps stop the work, not just slow it. Geelong averages 11.5 days a year at or below 2°C, with a mean July minimum of 5.4°C — below the minimum curing temperature for most jointing compounds. In an unheated or unoccupied house, winter work needs temporary heating, flagged before we start rather than after.

Thermal swing is what re-cracks a patched ceiling. The same region averages 21.3 days a year above 30°C and 8.2 above 35°C, against 11.5 at or below 2°C. That movement opens cornice mitres and reopens joints. When a repair keeps coming back, the cause is almost always framing or ground movement rather than the patch — which is why we fix to furring channel or battens where we can.

Storms drive most of the water-damage work. Geelong has recorded a maximum gust of 118 km/h and runs a mean 3pm wind of 23.3 km/h. With 143 rain days a year against only 525mm of rain, the profile is persistent damp rather than flash flooding — a slow-leak and condensation problem. That’s why so many Geelong ceiling stains are months old before anyone notices.

Salt air attacks the fixings, not the board. Manufacturers specifically warn to account for sea spray corroding steel components and to select framing and fasteners accordingly. On the Bellarine and Surf Coast that’s a decision made before anything is ordered.

Holiday homes are their own category. Around 18% of dwellings across the G21 region sit unoccupied against a state average of 11%, largely holiday homes (G21 Region Profile). A closed-up coastal house through a Geelong winter accumulates moisture with nobody there to notice a stain spreading. If you own here and live elsewhere, we can attend, photograph, quote and complete without you present.

Repair, Re-Secure, Overlay or Replace

Searches for “repair or replace a ceiling” return British DIY sites and no Australian sources at all. Here is how the decision actually gets made.

First: how urgent is it?

Western Australia’s building regulator publishes the clearest warning-sign list available in Australia. It’s WA guidance, not Victorian, but plasterboard behaves the same in both states. A ceiling under stress shows:

•     a loud cracking sound

•     sagging or dropping of the plasterboard sheeting and/or the cornice

•     visible cracking

•     small circles or blisters about the size of a shirt button, scattered along a straight line — nail pops, meaning the sheeting is pulling away from the joists

A measurement you can take yourself. Measure the ceiling height where it meets the wall, then again in the middle of the room. A variation of 12mm or more can mean the plasterboard has detached from the ceiling joists. A straightedge or spirit level held across the ceiling is the recommended second check.

Two tests we use on site. Gently pushing the sheet up towards the framing: if it moves, or screw heads appear or pop through, there’s already a gap and the fixings have started to let go. And a pronounced “V” where two sheets meet is the plain sign that centre fixings have failed.

What to do tonight, in order. Cracking noises, a visible curve, or a failed 12mm test — stay out of the room, move what you can from under it, call us. Nail pops in a line, cornice pulling away, or a fresh stain spreading — call within a few days. A hairline crack that hasn’t changed in years can wait for a scheduled visit.

Second: how bad is it?

Category
Crack width
What it means
Negligible

under 0.1mm

Hairline. No action.

Very slight

under 1mm

Fine cracks. No repair needed.

Slight

under 5mm

Noticeable but easily filled. Doors may stick slightly.

Moderate

5–15mm, or several over 3mm in one group

Repairable, but some lining may need replacing. Cause needs investigating.

Severe

15–25mm

Extensive repair. Frames distort, walls lean. Get an engineer involved.

For water damage the manufacturer’s threshold is the one that counts: substantially wet plasterboard should be replaced; minor exposure must dry completely and be inspected, and can only be kept if the board shows no deterioration or warping (CSR Gyprock). Fire- and smoke-affected board is recommended for replacement, because heat changes how the lining performs.

Third: which of the four options?

Option
Use it when
Watch out for
Re-screw / re-secure

Small area, caught early, sheet still pulls back flat. Re-fixed at 300mm centres.

Won’t fix distorted sheets.

Temporary battens, then re-fix

The sheet won’t pull flat by re-screwing alone. Battens across the underside for about a week.

Extra time, timber and repainting can make it cost more than replacing.

Overlay — new board over old

Framing sound; the ceiling is ugly rather than dangerous; insulation staying; or a vermiculite ceiling being left undisturbed.

Loses roughly 40mm of height. Adds weight to existing framing.

Full replacement / re-sheet

Sheets distorted from long-term sagging, most fixings failed, board substantially wet, or damage across several areas.

Most expensive and disruptive — but the only one that can be properly warranted.

The single most useful question to ask any contractor: can you re-secure this ceiling and guarantee it against further sagging? If the answer is no, get quotes on replacing the lining instead.

Worth keeping in perspective: WA’s Building Commissioner has said reinforcement and repairs will almost always be more straightforward than full replacement, and that repairing a ceiling costs less than doing nothing and fixing the results when it fails. Replacement is not the automatic answer.

Ceilings installed before 1990 — asbestos

Asbestos cement was common in Australian building products from the mid-1940s until the late 1980s, and the total Australian ban took effect on 31 December 2003. Sprayed textured “popcorn” ceilings are a specific risk: vermiculite mixed with gypsum plaster, sprayed between 1924 and 1990. Asbestos was never intentionally added — vermiculite can be naturally contaminated with it at the mine. Those coatings are classified friable, the higher-risk category.

What that means legally in Victoria. Under the Victorian OHS Regulations, unlicensed asbestos removal is limited to non-friable material, no more than 10m² in total, and no more than one hour of removal work in any seven-day period. Ten square metres of non-friable sheeting is about four sheets. Friable material — including sprayed vermiculite — requires a Class A licensed removalist, not a plasterer. WorkSafe Victoria must be notified at least 24 hours ahead for 10m² or less of non-friable material, and at least five days in all other cases.

What we do. If your ceiling is a sprayed textured finish, or the house predates 1990 and the lining is unfamiliar, we stop and recommend sampling before anything is disturbed. Not all vermiculite contains asbestos; testing is the only way to know. If it tests positive there are two legitimate outcomes — licensed removal by a Class A removalist, or overlay with new plasterboard or a suspended ceiling that leaves the original undisturbed. We can do the second. We won’t sand, scrape or drill a ceiling that hasn’t been cleared.


Ceiling repairs on an insurance claim

We work on insurer-referred and owner-managed claims for storm and water damage. Worth knowing, from the Insurance Council of Australia and the General Insurance Code of Practice rather than from us:

  • A “make safe” is immediate work to prevent further damage or make the site safe to visit — tarping a roof, for example. It isn’t the permanent repair. The ICA’s advice is to speak to your insurer before authorising any building work, including emergency repairs.
  •  Photograph everything before you clean up, and don’t throw out anything that could be salvaged or assessed.
  • Under the Code, if a loss adjuster is appointed you’ll be told within 5 business days. A claim decision follows within 10 business days of the insurer receiving all relevant information, with a 4-month outer limit and progress updates at least every 20 business days.
  • A scope of works is usually prepared by the loss adjuster on larger or more complex claims and used to obtain quotes. The ICA notes you can seek independent advice from a qualified tradesperson about that scope — something we’re happy to provide.
  • Where the insurer selects and directly authorises the repairer, the Code says the insurer accepts responsibility for the quality of that work and those materials.
  • On maintenance: the ICA states that if an insurer finds evidence a home hasn’t been well maintained and that contributed to the damage, it may reduce the payment, require the maintenance issue to be fixed first, or in some cases deny the claim. Your own policy wording is the only thing that decides your claim.

What Ceiling Repair Costs in Geelong

No plastering business in Geelong publishes ceiling repair pricing. The best-ranking competitor page has a heading titled “ceiling water damage repair cost” and gives no number at all. Here’s what’s actually knowable.

Materials are the small part. A standard 2400 × 1200 × 10mm recessed-edge sheet covers 2.88m² and retails around $24.25 at Bunnings (August 2026) — roughly $8.42 per m² for the board alone. Ceiling-grade sag-resistant board costs more. [CONFIRM current Bunnings price for the ceiling-grade sheet size you buy most.] Almost all of what you pay for is labour, compound, cornice, fixings, access, protection and time.

Published market rates, for context only. ServiceSeeking’s 2026 plasterer cost guide (published 24 February 2026) puts the national average at $77.37 per hour, around $41.16 per square metre, and a typical day rate near $549.45. Its Geelong data has shown plasterers at $35–$60 per hour. These are marketplace averages across every kind of plastering job, from a single patch to a full re-sheet — a sense of the range, not a quote for your ceiling.

How the job is usually priced. ServiceSeeking’s data shows 58% of plasterers quote by the hour, 17% per square metre and 15% by the day. Hourly suits small repairs where the time is genuinely hard to predict before the board is opened up. Per square metre suits a defined re-sheet. Day rates suit full room replacements.

Our rates: [CONFIRM — insert a real "from" price for a standard patch repair, a per-m² rate for a full ceiling re-sheet, and your minimum call-out. This is the highest-value section on the page. Not one competitor in the Geelong results publishes a number.]

Nine things that move a ceiling repair quote

1.    Repair or replacement. A patch is priced on time. A re-sheet is priced on area, plus demolition and disposal.

2.    How many separate areas. Four small patches in four rooms costs far more than one patch four times the size.

3.    What caused it, and whether it’s fixed. We won’t close a ceiling over an unfixed leak, so an unresolved cause adds a trade and a delay.

4.    Ceiling height and access. Stairwells, raked ceilings, double-height voids and anything needing scaffold slow every stage.

5.    Cornice. Whether it stays, is refitted, or has to be matched. Ornamental and heritage profiles cost considerably more than standard cove.

6.    Lath and plaster. Period ceilings take longer and carry more unknowns than plasterboard.

7.    Level of finish. Level 4 as standard; Level 5 adds a full skim coat.

8.    Asbestos. Testing or licensed removal of a pre-1990 lining is a separate scope by a separate licensed trade.

9.    Season. Winter jobs need more days between coats, and sometimes temporary heating.

What we include as standard: board, fixings, adhesive, compound, cornice cement, three-coat setting, sanding, and removal of old board and rubbish. Quotes are GST-inclusive and itemised. Painting is quoted separately unless you ask for it.

Where We Repair Ceilings

Greater Geelong: Geelong CBD, Geelong West, Newtown, Highton, Belmont, Grovedale, Waurn Ponds, Armstrong Creek, Charlemont, Mount Duneed, Marshall, Corio, Norlane, Lara, Bell Park, Bell Post Hill, Hamlyn Heights, Manifold Heights, Herne Hill, North Geelong, East Geelong, South Geelong, Newcomb, Whittington, St Albans Park, Thomson, Breakwater, Wandana Heights, Leopold.

Bellarine Peninsula: Drysdale, Clifton Springs, Curlewis, Ocean Grove, Barwon Heads, Portarlington, St Leonards, Indented Head, Point Lonsdale, Queenscliff, Wallington.

Surf Coast: Torquay, Jan Juc, Anglesea, Aireys Inlet, Lorne, Winchelsea, Moriac.

Golden Plains and surrounds: Bannockburn, Batesford, Fyansford, Lovely Banks, Little River.

The suburb lists on competing Geelong plastering sites stop at the Greater Geelong boundary. Torquay, Jan Juc, Anglesea, Queenscliff, Winchelsea and Bannockburn are all inside the G21 region and all inside our range.

FAQs


Is my sagging ceiling about to collapse?

There’s a check you can do in two minutes. Measure the ceiling height at the wall, then in the middle of the room. Western Australia’s building regulator advises that a variation of 12mm or more can mean the plasterboard has detached from the joists. Cracking sounds, a visible curve, or blisters the size of a shirt button in a straight line are the other warning signs. If any apply, stay out of the room and call us.

Can a water damaged ceiling be repaired, or does it all have to come out?

It depends how wet it got. CSR Gyprock recommends replacing plasterboard that has been substantially wet, and says board with minor exposure must dry completely and then be inspected before anyone decides to keep it. Wet paper reduces both the board’s strength and the grip of the fixings, so patching over a sheet that’s still damp usually fails twice — at the joint and at the fixings.

Who do I call first — a plasterer, a plumber or a roofer?

Whoever can stop the water. A roof leak needs a roof plumber. A burst pipe needs a plumber. Condensation from an exhaust fan or air-conditioning duct discharging into the roof space needs that ducting fixed. We come after the source is fixed and the cavity is dry. Closing a ceiling before then means paying for the same repair twice, and we’ll say so rather than take the job early.

Why does the water stain come back after I paint over it?

Because the stain dissolves into the new paint and bleeds through. Ordinary ceiling paint won’t block it. The fix is an oil-based stain-blocking sealer first, then the topcoat. Dulux’s ceiling stain blocker is specified for water stains, mould stains, tannin bleed and rust on paper-faced plasterboard. We seal before painting as standard.

How long does a ceiling repair take?

The cutting and sheeting is the quick part — often a few hours for a patch, a day or so for a room. The setting sets the schedule: three coats with roughly 24 hours between each, so allow about three days on top, then sanding and clean-up. A Geelong winter takes longer, because mean 9am humidity here hits 88% in June and compound dries far more slowly than manufacturers’ stated times assume.

Do I have to move out, or empty the room?

For a patch, no — we protect floors and furniture and work around you. For a full replacement, the room needs clearing and you’ll want to stay out while the ceiling is down. We sand with dust extraction and HEPA vacuums rather than pole-sanding into an open room, but a demolition day is a dusty day and we’d rather say so up front.

Could my old ceiling contain asbestos?

If the house was built or renovated before 1990, it’s a genuine possibility — the total Australian ban only took effect on 31 December 2003. Sprayed textured “popcorn” ceilings are the main one to watch: vermiculite sprayed with gypsum plaster between 1924 and 1990, classified friable, which means a Class A licensed removalist rather than a plasterer. Not all vermiculite contains asbestos, so testing is the only way to know. We stop and recommend sampling before anything is disturbed.

Will my insurance cover a water damaged ceiling?

That depends entirely on your policy, and we’re not the right people to tell you. What we can tell you is the process: photograph everything before you clean up, speak to your insurer before authorising any work including emergency repairs, and expect a loss adjuster for anything substantial. Under the General Insurance Code of Practice you’ll be told within 5 business days if an adjuster is appointed, and a decision follows within 10 business days of the insurer having all the information.